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Sète is, in short, a swirl of a spot, with constant movement on land and canal. From there, there's a regular service to Sète, which takes another half-hour. Le Grand Hotel (0077, 17 Quai Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, where you go to get a taste of life as once lived by the notables of Sète – ship-owners, merchants, lawyers. The attraction is the town itself: watery, energetic, a bit run-down in parts but colourful as hell.

It helps, of course, that Sète has the finest unsung beaches of the French Med – eight miles of them stretching along the spit of land separating the lagoon from the sea. The shuttle bus from Montpellier station links in with the tram service which, in turn, will get you to the train station. Rising with dignity by the main canal, the three-star Grand retains a swish of 19th-century style reviewed and corrected for 21st-century tastes. The Hotel de Paris (0018, 2 Rue Frédéric Mistral, is another three star, re-opened in 2010, with hip new colours but with its integrity intact. The first task, then, is to discover the centre and its criss-cross of canals. On the orders of Louis XIV, the port (and town) were built from 1666 to provide an outlet to the sea for the Canal du Midi.

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